After a few forays out of Canada (wine-wise, that is), I think it’s time to look at another of the fine offerings from the Okanagan Valley. The 2005 Burrowing Owl Syrah is just the wine to fit that bill. For those of you who have been reading this blog for a while, Burrowing Owl Winery should be particularly familiar.
The colour of a good Syrah is always something I enjoy. With a deep, dark red colour turning to shades of purple in the center, its very appearance promises delicious flavors. This Syrah is no exception.
The first scent you receive from it are juicy red berries that transform to the tart edge of black currents (cassis). This is followed by inviting earthy and chocolate tones.
The Syrah grape is the pride of the Rhone wine region of France, where it can be very refined or very rustic tasting. Most of the Canadian Syrahs I have tasted have tended towards the silky side of refinement. This particular one breaks from the rest with a slightly rougher edge.
It is important to clarify that “rougher” does not mean “bad”. In fact, I feel that this Syrah having an edge is an appealing thing, and helps it to stand out from other local examples. This rough or rustic feel is complemented by the jammy berry flavours along with dark chocolate and licorice root. Which, if you’re wondering, make a very nice combination.
The finish is dry and quite long, allowing all the flavours to mingle on your tongue.
I found this wine to be deep and the flavours very layered; it kept me coming back for more. It absolutely stands apart from some of the other Canadian Syrahs I have tasted. It is not a wine for everyone, but if you enjoy complex full-bodied wines with a rustic edge, this could be the wine for you (if you can find it).
One more thing: I opened it about an hour before we tasted it and poured off about a glass. I believe it benefited from the extra oxygen contact, as do most older wines. This letting the wine “breathe” tends to allow older wines to open up and express more scents and flavours then they would otherwise.
Synopsis:
Availability: Limited – Some wine stores are still stocking this vintage
Price: High $45+
D’s Rating: 4/5
Notes: A very good Syrah from a region more known for average examples (B.C.). Its rougher body may not appeal to everyone.
dustonthebottle 